Monday, March 23, 2009

Sun Continues at Alpe d'Heuz

Monday, March 23

It was another sunny day at Alpe d’Heuz but, before I launch into a report of the day I need to deal with some old business.

First, it was brought to my attention that last Monday’s spoon report on this blog was incomplete. I reported that Kim Kaiser received the spoon but cut off the reason. I have corrected that report and added last Monday’s report to the end of today’s news so you don’t have to scroll down to get the answer.

Second, several readers have inquired about the use or misuse of bidets on the 2009 trip. Apparently bidets were the subject of much discussion on the 2008 trip and the subject of a previous post on this blog, if you look at some of last year’s postings.

Sorry to say no spoons have been awarded for the misuse of bidets on this trip because we haven’t had any to misuse. Absent the bidets we are finding other ways to wash clothes and cool beer.

Finally, yesterday I reported on a group of intrepid skiers that made the slush run from the very top of the mountain to the bottom thinking that only a small group would be foolish enough to make the trek. Silly me! At dinner it sounded like everyone who put on skis Sunday made the run. It didn’t matter what time of day they made the trip, it was lousy. Typical Ski Masters travelers; there are no challenges they will not tackle. It turns out that even those skiing with guides made the run which suggests that it was not all that out of the ordinary.

The long run still was not very good.

Now for Monday skiing.

The first day the area seemed pretty big. Today, as we explored more areas, we began to discover just how big it is. Just when you think you’ve found all the good runs another one turns up. Areas we thought were too low to ski still had good snow on some faces. This is a big area and good snow can be found in the most unexpected places.

There are also some challenging areas. Round a bend at the wrong time of day and you may find yourself facing a sea of slushy piles. But they are forgiving and, other than being a bit tiring at the end of the day, you can make your way through them and likely will find firm snow around the next bend.

The on-slope food has consistently met with acclaim and this group has high standards. The first night our ski school representative suggested four restaurants in particular. I have sampled two of them and heard outstanding reports on the other two. The only complaint I’ve heard is that we can only squeeze in one lunch stop per day.

The Hotel
We were spoiled by the outstanding hotel in Wengen. The Pic Blanc is good but not quite at the same level. The dinners have been superb but the breakfast arrangement has been a notch below Wengen.

One difference in the hotels can be found in the closets. Yes, it sounds petty but hear me out. In Wengen we had lots of hangers; the kind you have at home that hook over the clothes rod. They trusted us not to steal them.

Here in Alpe d’Heuz they took their closet design from the Motel 6 chain where they assume all the guests will steal hangers. We have hangers with the little straight ends that slip into plastic holders that are affixed to the rod. The problem is that the plastic parts are so worn that the hangers keep slipping out and falling to the floor. You try again and think you have found a secure match and then, before you can cross the room, the hanger slips out and the clothes fall to the floor. Now, to be fair, not every hanger suffers from this defect but enough do that I’ve found it easier to toss the clothes directly to the floor and save the trouble of hanging them.

From conversations with the group the problem is widespread. Ah, the things one remembers about the trips.

SPOON REPORT FOR LAST NIGHT, SUNDAY MARCH 22
The Sunday spoon went to Steve Sanford for tossing his ski pole from the viewing platform at the highest point at the resort, the top of Pic Blanc. Now, in fairness, Steve would argue that the wind actually was responsible for the pole slipping under the rail and there may be some truth to that. But the spoon is not about fairness and Tom Naden was pleased to pass it on.

To compound the problem the pole could only be reached via a very precarious route. His wife, Lin, was unable to watch his trek across a slippery ice face to retrieve the pole. But pole and Steve were recovered and both joined the spoon for a nice evening in Alpe d’Heuz.

SPOON REPORT for last Monday, March 16 and left off of the original posting.
The Saturday spoon was presented to Eva Sabo for confusing cattle feed for snowballs. It may have been unfair to pick on a newcomer but it was Claudine’s choice and bus days are usually slow days anyway.

Eva was able to pass the spoon on immediately to the Sunday recipient, long time SM Euro traveler, Kim Kaiser. Kim the commercial pilot who packs bags and travels many times a month. Kim who has been on the trip 12 times. Kim, who normally has his act together. Kim came to Europe without his ski clothes.

He knows exactly where they are; stacked in the back bedroom ready to be packed. But they weren’t. And Kim received the spoon.

Pam and Kim actually arrived in Europe a few days before the group and were tucked in bed in Zurich when Kim woke up with one of those “Oh S***” moments. So the next day they were able to round up some fashionable gear so he wouldn’t have to make his purchases at the ski resort.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Arrival at Alpe d'Heuz

Sunday, March 22, 2009

We made it! After a train ride down the hill from Wengen, a six hour bus ride (that included a lunch break at a Swiss Burger King) we made our way up the 21 hair pin turns from the valley to Alpe d’Heuz, high in the French mountains near Grenoble. (This is a stop on the Tour d’France though none of us elected to come up on a bike.)

Alpe D’Heuz is a stark contrast to Wengen. While Wengen was a charming old mountain village this place is slick and contemporary. It sits on a treeless hillside, climbing up the hill to create a triangular shaped village with lots of little French cars driven by weekenders eager to enjoy the last snow of the season.

Ski lifts of every type seem to sprout from the village in all directions. I don’t know the area size but it is big. They claim 118 runs and, though some of the lower ones might be closed, there are still lots to chose from. Lifts crawl up sun drenched slopes and there are several snow covered peaks competing for skier attention.

After lunch, the 12 of us that ran into each other on the hill, decided to tackle Pic Blanc, at 3300 meters the highest point in the resort. From there the choice was the Serenne run, the longest in the resort that would take us down to about 1800 meters, or take the tram back down. Six chose wisely and returned to the tram (Lin Sanford, Vicki Geist, Sue and Rich Smith, Mo O’Neil, Lorrie Meyer). The other six (Steve Sanford, Larry Geist, Bob Dixey, Ed Meyer, Kathy and Steve Dennis) decided to try the Serenne “because it was there.” Bad Choice.

The top was a narrow, icy chute with protruding rocks to keep you on alert. The next section was loose snow with rocks scattered about. Then there was a wonderful section of very wonderful skiing. However, the lower half of the run could be characterized as rock strewn slush; lots of work, hard on skis and not so fun. But the intrepid group made is down and will not return. We later learned that John Powis made the same mistake and we will likely hear of others as the evening progresses.

Some in the group availed themselves of guides for the first day so will likely have better news to report.

The bottom line is that the resort offers lots of skiing and there is still a good base to work with.

Oh, by the way, the weather is clear and sunny again. Our luck is holding.

SPOON REPORT
It has been a quiet time for the spoon. Tom Naden received it on Friday for his restaurant antics and passed it on to the Turnovskys who he blames for the whole mess in the first place. Now, by agreement with the Turnovskys Tom is back in possession and looking forward to a Sunday night presentation.

While the past few days have been low on spoonable events early reports suggest that today, Sunday, was bountiful. Time will tell.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Wengen Week Ends

Friday, March 20th

The week flew by like a comet and the normal end of week Ski Masters notice appeared on the hotel front door Thursday evening. Saturday wake up call will be at…; Luggage outside your door at…; Bus leaves at ….

While we are bidding Wengen adieu on Saturday we will be greeting Alpe d’Heuz with gusto; a new area and new adventures.

Friday did not start out with promise. The temperature had dropped into the mid 20’s and clouds were peeking over the tops of the mountains. But the zip line at First was calling and about 20 of the hardy bundled up and headed out. Lin Sanford and Vicky Geist were game to try the zip as well, even though they were not skiing. So while the skiers made their way up and down hills to First the two intrepid ladies rode one tram, two gondolas and a bus to meet the group at the top of the zip.

While the skies cleared and the sking was surprisingly good, the winds were too high for the zip to operate so no one was able to share Claudine’s, Kim’s and Robb’s Wednesday experience.
The Wednesday Zip Liners

Those that skied stretched the day to the limit and many didn’t make it back to the ski room until nearly 5:00.

Wengen has exceeded all expectations. The weather, skiing and food have been fantastic and some of the veterans believe this may be the best overall Wengen visit in SM Euro history. Suffice the group has made the most of the area.

Since Saturday will be a travel day the blogger may have to take a day off. It is about a six hour drive to the next resort and most bus days are pretty low key events.

SPOON REPORT
It should be noted that after six days Claudine has not received the spoon. Ron and Lenore rarely made it that long. The trip leader is in the limelight and just has too many opportunities to commit spoonable offenses. However, efficient Claudine has performed with flawless perfection and/or she hasn’t been caught.

Instead the Thursday spoon went to four trip veteran Tom Naden. There was some question whether Tom or Stephen and Michelle Turnosvsky should have received the spoon but the decision of Eva was final and Tom got the big woody.

As the story was told, Tom and the Turnosvskys stopped for lunch at a hillside cafĂ© that was divided into two areas. The restaurant offered table service while the other clearly marked room was self serve with a cafeteria line. The three wandered into the restaurant, dropped their coats, hats and gloves and announced to the 12 other group members, who were already eating in the restaurant, that they were going next door to purchase lunch. They were advised, in a supportive and friendly manner by the Sanford’s, that self serve meals were not allowed in the restaurant. Despite the warning they made their purchases and marched back to the restaurant, where their more refined fellow travelers were dining.

They had barely entered the room when they were confronted by a determined Swiss waitress who turned them and their self serve meals around and sent them off to the other room. With humility they obeyed, returning later to recover their ski gear.

Somehow that story made it to Eva’s ears and the rest is history.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Clouds (gasp!) Come to Wengen

Thursday, March 19

Yes, it’s true; the three day run of sun came to an end on Thursday. While not heavy Pacific Northwest clouds, they were adequate to block most of the sun and create occasional flat light conditions. More challenging they left the snow hard packed in many areas and only the lower mountain softened. But we should complain?

The group has a wonderful spirit and attacked the slopes with cautious vigor. During the afternoon adult beverage call some did switch from cold drinks to hot to deal with the lingering chill in the air.

It was not a big day for group news. Most of the skiers were on the slope; many after a day off on Wednesday. Some of the non-skiers took the train to a delightful rail side restaurant on the hill where they met with a contingent of skiers. That way everyone could enjoy the hill, despite the light clouds. (To be fair, there were times when one could see a faint shadow while skiing.)

On past trips Hawaiian or Mexican themed parties have been held creating memorable scenes in the hotels. This year the theme was “Swiss.” It was perhaps a bit tamer than past years but a good time was had by all and, once again, the Mo and Bob opened up their extra large room for the party.

The Swiss Party: Bob Dixey, Rich Smith, Larry Geist, Tom Naden, Stephen Turnovsky

Ron and Lenore’s ears must have been ringing as trip veterans recounted memories of past trips with the Lyle clan. Some recall their first Jaeger tea with Ron in Austria. Others remember the time Lenore encouraged a hillside bar in Cortina to reopen at the end of the day so she could introduce her 12 followers to grappa, an Italian specialty. As a result of the stop her group nearly missed the last tram down from the slopes. Ah, the memories.

Which leads to the Question:

WHY DO PEOPLE WANT TO SKI IN EUROPE?
I’m often asked, why do you go to Europe? Isn’t the skiing just as good or better in the U.S.?

In my opinion the skiing and much of the scenery in the U.S. is superior to Europe. But that misses the point.

Europe offers skiing, scenery and much more. It is a chance to travel with a wonderful group of people who share a common interest. You are exposed to people, languages, customs and food you would never see at Seattle Ridge in Sun Valley. Maybe it’s that indescribable thing, atmosphere.

Today I rode the chair with Swiss, British and Dutch skiers. We managed to converse! I had a Swiss dish at lunch that I can’t get in Utah. Every restaurant on the hill is a bit different.

And, oh by the way, the skiing is pretty good too. Where in the U.S. do you take a train to the slope? When was the last time you rode a funicular in the Rockies?

In a way, comparing U.S. skiing to European skiing is not a fair exercise. If you just want to ski, stay home. If you want to immerse yourself in a different culture, come to Europe and ski.

I hope I answered the question, why ski in Europe.

SPOON STORIES
Early in the trip it appeared this would be a spoon rich environment. Not so. This group is careful and competent.

There were a few minor T-bar incidents; nothing major. Ed Meyer was assaulted by an aggressive soap dispenser and nearly missed a train trying to wash it off in a sink with but a trickle of water.

But the prize went to Eva Sabo. On Wednesday Eva joined a group headed for the “Top of Europe.” When they arrived at the train station, a 10 minute walk from the hotel, she found she had forgotten her lift pass, which gives free access to most trains. Not wanting to be left behind she purchased a single ride ticket. That oversight alone might have been spoonable.

But when she arrived at the second train to the Top of Europe she received the real shock. If you had a lift pass, the second train was about 50 francs. If you didn’t have a pass the ticket cost 149 francs. It was a costly lesson but it kept her with her friends and earned her the spoon from John Powis who was anxious to pass it on.

Perhaps Thursdays skiing will provide more material.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Lazy Day in Wengen

Wednesday, March 18th

The weather was a repeat; what more can one say. Sunny, warm and spectacular.

After two days of trying to do it all the group tempo eased back a bit. One contingent left their ski gear behind and made a day of traveling to the “Top of Europe,” the Jungfraujoch. With two train rides each way, gawking time at the top, lunch at a hillside restaurant on the way back and a stop at a bar in town it was late afternoon before they returned to the hotel.

A second cluster visited the First area and found wonderful snow and an additional way to risk their lives; a zip line. Of course Claudine, Robb and Kim had to try it figuring if anyone could engineer a zip line it would be the Swiss. Kim’s video of the trip will tell it all.

Others took the day off, skied short days or found other ways to soak up the ambiance of Wengen.

BEAUSITE PARK HOTEL, WENGEN
The Beausite Park Hotel has been the SM Euro hotel of choice for most of its past Wengen visits. Situated on one of the highest points in the village most rooms enjoy a postcard southerly view down over the village and to the looming mountains beyond. Both the view and the hike up to the hotel take your breath away.


Photo by Larry Geist

While the hotel dates back to the early part of the last century, the rooms and public spaces have been updated and are truly “4 star.” Small rooms, typical of older hotels, have been combined to create spacious suites on the view side.

It is a bit of a climb from the train station to the hotel but the hotel will send a cart down to pick up weary skiers if necessary. The food and service maintain the 4 star rating. On Tuesday evening a seafood buffet was offered as an appetizer but could have doubled as the main course.

All in all, the hotel is proving to be a fine home for SM Euro travelers.

SPOON REPORT
Poor John Powis. He has the spoon for a second day, being unable to find a recipient in the group. Passing it on may prove to be a problem.
First, with only 33 travelers, there are fewer candidates than with a larger group and
This is a pretty competent group. Except for forgetting to pack properly, the group has proven to be skilled at map reading and following directions. Steve Sanford has not left his wife at any rail stations, Bob Dixey has not made any offending remarks to German skiers and Sylvie OKeefe has behaved herself in the bar.
Finally, there is some suspicion that friends are covering up mistakes made by friends; truly shameful behavior.
So John has the spoon for a second day.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Off to Murren, Tuesday

Tuesday, March 17th

Another glorious day in Switzerland.

Before I report on the days events I need to explain the lay of the land for those who have not been to Wengen.

To reach Wengen you drive up a narrow valley to the town of Lauterbrunnen. Vertical rock faces rise on each side of the town. On the top of the left face lies the town of Wengen. On the top of the right lies Murren. To reach Wengen you board a cog railway that winds up the steep slope on a 15 minute ride to Wengen. To reach Murren you take a tram from town to the top of the ridge and then switch to a cog railway for the ride to Murren.

From the Wengen side you can reach two main ski areas; Kleine Scheidegg-Mannlichen (which I will call the Wengen area) and, further away, across another valley, Grindelwald-First (which I will call the First area.) To access these areas one takes a large tram from near our hotel. This area is also home to the 13,000 foot Eiger and the highest train in Europe.

On the Murren side you can reach the Murren-Schilthorn area (which I will call the Murren area.) The top of the Schilthorn was the set for an early James Bond film, His Majesty’s Secret Service.

Do you have it figured out now? If not, I suggest you try Mapquest or Google Earth.

The reason I give you this geography lesson is so you can appreciate the trek most of the group went on today to ski the Murren side; cog to Lauterbrunnen, tram to the top of the ridge and cog toward Murren then trams and chairs up the mountain. The first two hours were more of a hike than a ski run but the scenery is sensational and worth the long series of trains and trams.

The snow was a mix of good groom and mashed potatoes (on the sunny faces.) At mid mountain the temperature was 6 degrees centigrade. You scientific types can convert that to Fahrenheit. Suffice to say it was warm and wonderful and most dressed down from Monday.

It was such a great adventure that it was nearly 5:00 PM before the last five wandered back to the hotel. (Gretchen and Robin Callan, Ed Meyer, Steve Sanford and Kim Kaiser)

Dick and Kay Krutch and Pam Kaiser, who are all on injured reserve, took advantage of the weather and rode the tram to the ridge/restaurant above town for a scenic lunch. With binoculars they might have seen the larger group across the valley.

Day two was a success.

ST. PATRICK’S DAY
The St. Patrick’s day party has been a trip tradition for many years, sustained and promoted by Jay Kane and Tom McGrath, our perennial Sons of the Irish. They, in turn, corralled every other group member with a hint of Irish blood and threw parties that are likely legends with housekeeping staffs across Europe.

This year our Irish anchors were absent so Bob Dixey and Mo O’Neil stepped up to host the big event. Lin Sanford pitched in with green ribbons for all and, in the end, a party worthy of old St Patrick was held.

SPOON REPORT: MONDAY EVENING
Kim, the winner for forgetting his ski clothes, made some interesting discoveries while searching out spoon recipients. It seems that this is a forgetful group. Mark Mathews left his boot bag, complete with boots, at home. We wonder if he even noticed how light his luggage was. And Stephen and Michelle Turnosvsky left home without their poles.

But it was John Powis that took the spoon. It seems that John slipped away from dinner Sunday evening and returned to his room to deal with some personal matters. He opened his door and put his card key in the little slot that turns on the room lights. The lights came on. Then, fearing he would forget his card key, he removed the key and went into the bathroom to attend to matters.

John didn’t realize that, once the card key was removed, the lights would go out after a short delay. For John that moment came at an inopportune time. Suddenly he found himself in a bathroom that “was darker than the inside of a goat.” He put things away and began groping for a way out. The first handle he turned was the shower faucet which produced predictable results.

Eventually he made his way out and back to the dinner table where he made his second mistake of the evening. He mentioned the incident within earshot of someone with loose lips. John now wears the spoon.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Monday, March 16th

Greetings from Wengen.

Sunday evening went off like a normal first evening in a resort; luggage emptied, a quick nap, welcome reception by the hotel, a briefing from the local ski school on weather, snow conditions and lift tickets. Then it was off to dinner and the introduction of the spoon. More on that later.

The hotel owner greeted the group and commented on how much he enjoyed dealing with Ron and Lenore over the past years. And yes, there are lots of “remember when Ron or Lenore did this or that on a past trip” discussions. So their spirit is in Wengen and Claudine is carrying the torch in grand style.

Then came Monday morning, the first day on the slopes. I thought of trying to describe the day in three languages but decided to let the pictures tell it all.


Yes it was fantastic; warm, sunny and lots of snow. Forecast is for more of the same. As a good omen the Geist’s missing skis arrived in the hotel lobby at 8:00 am, just in time for skiing. What could be better?

So the first day is fading fast and no injuries have been reported. Most groups skied the Mannlichen area, just above the hotel. Tomorrow a new area awaits.

SPOON REPORT
The Saturday spoon was presented to Eva Sabo for confusing cattle feed for snowballs. It may have been unfair to pick on a newcomer but it was Claudine’s choice and bus days are usually slow days anyway.

Eva was able to pass the spoon on immediately to the Sunday recipient, long time SM Euro traveler, Kim Kaiser. Kim the commercial pilot who packs bags and travels many times a month. Kim who has been on the trip 12 times. Kim, who normally has his act together. Kim came to Europe without his ski clothes.

He knows exactly where they are; stacked in the back bedroom ready to be packed. But they weren’t. And Kim received the spoon.

Pam and Kim actually arrived in Europe a few days before the group and were tucked in bed in Zurich when Kim woke up with one of those “Oh S***” moments. So the next day they were able to round up some fashionable gear so he wouldn’t have to make his purchases at the ski resort.